Post by kcs1 on Mar 28, 2007 8:33:43 GMT -5
All of this information can be found in "The Basics of Model Railroading" by Kalmback video.
No matter what kind of plan you have, it's best to lay it out full size, either on a large sheet of paper or directly on your layout base. No matter how well drawn the plan is, it will need adjustments. Example: I wanted to put a truss bridge next to a turnout. If I had, there wouldn't have been clearance for the train. I had to cut a piece of track to fit between the bridge and the turnout (about 4 inches). Remember to trim off part of the ties to make room for the rail joiners. File the ends to get them square, add the joiners and fit it in place. Temporarily assemble the entire track to make sure everything fits as you planned. Once you've done this, put power to the track and see if you can run a train on it without any problems. Once you're satisfied a train will run, you need to go back and check the alignment of the entire layout. Make sure that all rail joints are tight and that there are no track kinks, especailly in the curves. You can use thin wire nails to temporarily hold the track in place as you work around the layout. Don't be afraid to reposition and realign the track until everything is perfect. When you're satisfied with the track alignment, use a pencil or marking pen to mark the center line of all the track. Mark any areas that you're going to cut out, Lakes, rivers, etc. Take out the temporary nails and remove all the track. Cut out the areas you've marked for removal.
Now for the cork roadbed. It comes in a strip which you tear in half and reassemble so the beveled edges are on the outside.
i61.photobucket.com/albums/h80/jeffrey-wimberly/cork2.jpg
This gives you a basic roadbed contour. Each 1/2 piece of cork is nailed in place with 1/2" brads and follows the center line you marked before.
i61.photobucket.com/albums/h80/jeffrey-wimberly/cork1.jpg
When you're working with turnouts, tack down the outside pieces first, then fill with cut pieces or you could use scraps. Also cut a piece of cork for the switch machine. Stagger the ends of the cork wherever possible. Sand the cork flat with medium grit sandpaper. This will pick out nail heads that are too high and remove the unnatural lip at the edge of the cork. Vacuum up any debris. It's time to return the track pieces to the layout. Check your track plan for the location of any insulated rail joiners and put them in place now. When the track is in it's final position and there are no gaps or kinks, start tacking it down. Use a nail set so you don't damage the track with the hammer and don't drive the nails in so far that it causes the track to buckle. When the nail head touches the tie, that's enough. Sight down the track and watch for kinks. Use the nail set, set at an angle, to adjust the track. When you're satisfied, take a broad flat file and file each joint until it's perfectly smooth. Use a jeweler's file to file the switch points, so they blend smoothly with the stock rail. This will prevent wheels picking the points as they enter the turnout. Use an NMRA gauge to check that all of your track is in gauge, including the turnouts.If the track is too wide or too narrow, it can be fixed by putting a hot soldering iron on the rail. NOT THE TIES! This heats the rail and causes the ties to get a little soft. Now put in your NMRA gauge and remove the soldering iron. Let the track cool. Take out your gauge and recheck the track. Run a magnet along the track to pick up any nails or spikes. You're now ready for the next step.
No matter what kind of plan you have, it's best to lay it out full size, either on a large sheet of paper or directly on your layout base. No matter how well drawn the plan is, it will need adjustments. Example: I wanted to put a truss bridge next to a turnout. If I had, there wouldn't have been clearance for the train. I had to cut a piece of track to fit between the bridge and the turnout (about 4 inches). Remember to trim off part of the ties to make room for the rail joiners. File the ends to get them square, add the joiners and fit it in place. Temporarily assemble the entire track to make sure everything fits as you planned. Once you've done this, put power to the track and see if you can run a train on it without any problems. Once you're satisfied a train will run, you need to go back and check the alignment of the entire layout. Make sure that all rail joints are tight and that there are no track kinks, especailly in the curves. You can use thin wire nails to temporarily hold the track in place as you work around the layout. Don't be afraid to reposition and realign the track until everything is perfect. When you're satisfied with the track alignment, use a pencil or marking pen to mark the center line of all the track. Mark any areas that you're going to cut out, Lakes, rivers, etc. Take out the temporary nails and remove all the track. Cut out the areas you've marked for removal.
Now for the cork roadbed. It comes in a strip which you tear in half and reassemble so the beveled edges are on the outside.
i61.photobucket.com/albums/h80/jeffrey-wimberly/cork2.jpg
This gives you a basic roadbed contour. Each 1/2 piece of cork is nailed in place with 1/2" brads and follows the center line you marked before.
i61.photobucket.com/albums/h80/jeffrey-wimberly/cork1.jpg
When you're working with turnouts, tack down the outside pieces first, then fill with cut pieces or you could use scraps. Also cut a piece of cork for the switch machine. Stagger the ends of the cork wherever possible. Sand the cork flat with medium grit sandpaper. This will pick out nail heads that are too high and remove the unnatural lip at the edge of the cork. Vacuum up any debris. It's time to return the track pieces to the layout. Check your track plan for the location of any insulated rail joiners and put them in place now. When the track is in it's final position and there are no gaps or kinks, start tacking it down. Use a nail set so you don't damage the track with the hammer and don't drive the nails in so far that it causes the track to buckle. When the nail head touches the tie, that's enough. Sight down the track and watch for kinks. Use the nail set, set at an angle, to adjust the track. When you're satisfied, take a broad flat file and file each joint until it's perfectly smooth. Use a jeweler's file to file the switch points, so they blend smoothly with the stock rail. This will prevent wheels picking the points as they enter the turnout. Use an NMRA gauge to check that all of your track is in gauge, including the turnouts.If the track is too wide or too narrow, it can be fixed by putting a hot soldering iron on the rail. NOT THE TIES! This heats the rail and causes the ties to get a little soft. Now put in your NMRA gauge and remove the soldering iron. Let the track cool. Take out your gauge and recheck the track. Run a magnet along the track to pick up any nails or spikes. You're now ready for the next step.